Travelogue

കാശി

വാരാണസി പോകാൻ ചുരുങ്ങിയത് 2-3 വർഷം എങ്കിലുമായി ഞാൻ ആലോചിക്കുന്നു. എല്ലാ തവണയും എന്തെങ്കിലും ഒക്കെ കാരണം വന്നു അത് മുടങ്ങിപോകും. ഇത്തവണ ഉണ്ണി വരുന്ന കാരണം കൊണ്ട് അതങ്ങനെ നടന്നു. പതിവ് പോലെ ഇന്ത്യൻ റെയിൽവേ 3 മണിക്കൂർ താമസിച്ചാണ് വരുന്നത്. പുലർച്ചെ 4 മണിക്ക് എത്തേണ്ട ട്രെയിൻ ആയിരുന്നു, പക്ഷെ ട്രെയിൻ 3 മണിക്കൂർ ലേറ്റ് ആണെന്ന് ixigo ലും irctc യിലും കണ്ടു. അങ്ങനെ 5 മണി കഴിഞ്ഞു ഇറങ്ങിയാൽ മതിയാവും എന്ന് തീരുമാനിച്ചു നമ്മൾ മൂന്നുപേരും ഉറങ്ങാൻ കിടന്നു. 5 മണിക്ക് ഞാൻ എഴുന്നേറ്റു ixigo ളു നോക്കിയപ്പോൾ ട്രെയിൻ കവർ ചെയ്ത് 5.15 നു എത്തും എന്ന് കണ്ടു. ഞാൻ ചാടി എണീറ്റു സാബിർ നെയും ശാലിനിയെയും വിളിച്ചു പെട്ടെന്ന്ഇ റങ്ങാൻ പറഞ്ഞു കിട്ടിയതൊക്കെ കയ്യിൽ എടുത്തു ഒരു cab ബുക്ക്‌ ചെയ്ത് ഹോസ്റ്റൽ നു പുറത്തെത്തി. Irctc യിൽ അപ്പോഴും സമയം 5.45 നു വരും എന്ന് തന്നെ ആണ് അപ്ഡേറ്റ് ചെയ്തിരുന്നത്. എങ്കിലും എന്റെ ixigo യിൽ ഉള്ള വിശ്വാസത്തിൽ കുറവൊന്നും വന്നില്ല. Uber വന്നു guard ഗേറ്റ് ഒക്കെ തുറന്നു, സ്റ്റേഷൻ ഇൽ എത്തിയപോഴേക്കും സമയം 5.28 ആയി. നമ്മൾ വന്നു 2 മിനിറ്റ് ഇൽ ട്രെയിൻ വന്നു. അങ്ങനെ എങ്ങനെ ഒക്കെയോ മിസ്സ്‌ ആവേണ്ടിയിരുന്ന ഈ യാത്ര വീണ്ടും തുടർന്നു.

ട്രെയിൻ എന്നത്തേയും പോലെ തന്നെ! യൂസ് ചെയ്‌ത ബെഡ്ഷീറ്റും പില്ലോയും ഞങ്ങളുടെ സീറ്റ്‌ ഇൽ ഉണ്ടാരുന്നു. നമ്മളുടെ സീറ്റ്‌ ഇൽ ഒരു കൂസലും ഇല്ലാതെ ഉറങ്ങുന്ന ആൾകാഫെ ഒക്കെ വിളിച്ചു അടി ഉണ്ടാക്കി സീറ്റ്‌ ഒക്കെ ശരിയാക്കി ഒന്നുറങ്ങാൻ കിടന്നപ്പോഴേക്കും നേരം 7 മണി ആയി.

കഷ്ടപ്പെട്ട് ബുദ്ദിമുട്ടി ഒന്നുറങ്ങി വന്നപ്പോഴേക്കും സാബിർ എഴുന്നേറ്റു ചവിട്ടാൻ തുടങ്ങി. അങ്ങനെ അക്കാര്യത്തിൽ ഒരു തീരുമാനം ആയി. ആ ബോഗി മുഴവൻ കൂട്ടിയാൽ ഒരു 10 കുട്ടികളെങ്കിലും ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നു. 10-14 മണിക്കൂർ കരച്ചിലും ബഹളവും, ആഹാ!

അങ്ങനെ ഇഴഞ്ഞു ഇഴഞ്ഞു, 13 മണിക്കൂർ കൊണ്ട് എത്തേണ്ട സ്ഥലത്തേക്ക്, ഏകദേശം 24 മണിക്കൂർ എടുത്തു മന്ദം മന്ദം പോകുന്ന ഈ മന്ദാകിനി എത്തിച്ചേർന്നിരിക്കുന്നു.

എനിക്ക് ട്രെയിൻ യാത്രകൾ മടുത്തു തുടങ്ങിയിരിക്കുന്നു. 12 മണിക്കൂർ കൊണ്ട് എത്തേണ്ട സ്ഥലത്ത് എത്താൻ, ഈ ട്രെയിൻ 22 മണിക്കൂർ എടുത്തു. സാബിർ കുറെ ബുക്ക്‌ വായിച്ചു. ഉറങ്ങി ഞാനും ശാലിനി യും കുറെ സംസാരിച്ചു, പുറത്ത് നോക്കി കാടും പടലും കണ്ടിരുന്നു. ഇടക്കിടെ അതും ഇതും വാങ്ങി കഴിച്ചു രാത്രി ആക്കി.

Banaras ആൻഡ് വാരാണസി ജംഗ്ഷൻ എന്നിങ്ങനെ രണ്ടു സ്റ്റേഷൻ ഉണ്ട് കാശി യിൽ. വാരാണസി ജംഗ്ഷൻ ആണ് വലിയ സ്റ്റേഷൻ, രണ്ടും തമ്മിൽ 4 കിലോമീറ്റർ ദൂരമേ ഉള്ളൂ എങ്കിലും ഇന്റർനെറ്റ്‌ ഇൽ ഒരു മണിക്കൂർ delay കാണിച്ചിരുന്നതിനാൽ ഞങ്ങൾ banaras ഇൽ ഇറങ്ങി. Uber onnum കിട്ടിയില്ല. സമയം രാത്രി 1 മണി ആയിരുന്നു. ഉണ്ണിയും ഷബാനയും ഏകദേശം അതെ സമയത്ത് വാരാണസി ജംഗ്ഷനിൽ വന്നിറങ്ങി. ഞങ്ങൾ ഓട്ടോ പിടിച്ചു ഹോട്ടൽ ലേക്ക് എത്തി. അവരും. ഒരു ഡോർമെറ്ററി യിൽ പ്രതീക്ഷിക്കാവുന്നതിലും സൗകര്യങ്ങൾ ഉള്ള luxurious ആയ ഒരു ഹോസ്റ്റൽ ആയിരുന്നു അത്. ' pearl courtyard '.

രാവിലെ 9 മണി ആയപ്പോഴേക്കും ഉണ്ണിയും ഷബാനയും ഞങ്ങളെ വിളിക്കാൻ തുടങ്ങി. എനിക്ക് ഉറക്കം മതിയായിരുന്നില്ല. ഉറക്കത്തേക്കാൾ മനോഹരമായ ഒന്നും തന്നെ ജീവിതത്തിൽ ഇല്ലെന്നുള്ള കാഴ്ചപ്പാടിലാണ് ഞാൻ ഈ ഇടെ ജീവിച്ചുപോകുന്നത്. എങ്കിലും വേറെ വഴി ഇല്ലാത്തത് കൊണ്ട് ഞാൻ എഴുന്നേറ്റു. എല്ലാവരും റെഡി ആയി പുറത്ത് ഇറങ്ങിയപ്പോഴേക്കും സമയം 10 മണി കഴിഞ്ഞു. തൊട്ടടുത്തുള്ള ഒരു കടയിൽ നിന്നും ബ്രേക്ഫാസ്റ് കഴിച്ചു, അടുത്തുള്ള ഒരു ആളൊഴിഞ്ഞ അമ്പലത്തിൽ കയറി തിരിച്ചു ഇറങ്ങിയപോഴേക്കും ഉച്ച ആയി. ഞങ്ങളുടെ ഡോർമെറ്ററി യിൽ ഉണ്ടായിരുന്ന പ്രിയങ്ക പറഞ്ഞത് അനുസരിച് കാശി ക്ഷേത്രത്തിൽ പോകുന്നതിനു മുൻപ് kalbairav temple ഇൽ പോകാൻ തീരുമാനിച്ചു.അവിടെ എത്തിയപോഴേക്കും അമ്പലം അടച്ചുപോയി, പിന്നീട് 3 മണിക്കേ തുറക്കൂ എന്നുള്ളതുകൊണ്ട് അത് വരെ ഞങ്ങൾ വാരാണസിയുടെ ഇടുങ്ങിയ വഴികളിലൂടെ നടന്നു, ഗംഗ തീരത്ത് ചെന്നെത്തി. മണൽ വാരി എറിഞ്ഞാൽ നിലം തൊടാത്തത്ര ജനങ്ങൾ. റോഡിൽ ലും, നദിക്കരയിലും എല്ലായിടത്തും ജനങ്ങൾ. പണി മസാല യുടെ മണം, വണ്ടിയുടെ ഹോണടി ശബ്ദം, വഴി നീളെ പശുക്കൾ, പട്ടികൾ. ആകെപാടെ തിക്കും തിരക്കും. എനിക്ക് ശ്വാസം മുട്ടി.

3 മണി ആയപ്പോഴേക്കും ഞങ്ങൾ തിരിച്ചു kalbairav temple ഇൽ എത്തി അവിടെ കണ്ണെത്താത്ത ദൂരത്തു ക്യൂ.മലയാളികൾ, മദിരാസികൾ, ഇതരഭാഷ കൾ ആകെ കലപില. ഒന്ന് രണ്ടു മണിക്കൂർ നിന്ന് ഒടുവിൽ ഞങ്ങൾ അമ്പലത്തിൽ എത്തി. അവിടെ അതിലും വലിയ തിരക്ക്. ഒടുവിൽ തൂക്കി തിരക്കി ഞെങ്ങി ഞെരങ്ങി ഞങ്ങൾ തൊഴുതിറങ്ങി. അപ്പോഴേക്കും എനിക്ക് മതിയായി. രാത്രി ആയപ്പോഴേക്കും തിരക്ക് പതിന്മടങ്ങായി, റൂമിലെത്താൻ കൊറേ പാടുപെട്ടു, അവിടെ നിന്നും കിട്ടിയതൊക്കെ കഴിച്ചു ഞാൻ കിടന്നുറങ്ങി. യാത്രകളൊക്കെ എനിക്ക് മടുത്തുതുടങ്ങിയതായി എനിക്ക് തോന്നി.

അടുത്ത ദിവസം രാവിലേ 4 മണിക്ക് എണീറ്റു റെഡി ആയി ഞങ്ങൾ ഗംഗ ആരതി കാണാൻ പോയി. സാബിർ ഉറക്കം ആയിരുന്നോണ്ട് വന്നില്ല. രാവിലെ 6 മണിക്ക് ഗംഗ ആരതി നടക്കുന്നത് അസി ghat ഇൽ മാത്രമാണ്. ഞങ്ങൾ ചെന്നിറങ്ങിയതാവട്ടെ

ദശാശ്വമേദ് ghat ലും. അവിടന്ന് നടന്നു നടന്നു അസി ghat ഇൽ എത്താൻ 2-2.5 കിലോമീറ്റർ നടന്നു. രാവിലേ ആയത് കൊണ്ട് അതികം ആളുകൾനൊന്നും ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നില്ല. അത് കഴിഞ്ഞ് പിന്നെ ഞങ്ങൾ 2-3 മണിക്കൂർ ക്യൂ നിന്ന് കാശി വിശ്വനാധ് അമ്പലത്തിൽ പോയി. ഒരു മിനിറ്റ് പോലും മര്യാദക് തൊഴാൻ പറ്റീലമാണ് മാത്രല്ല, പ്രതിഷ്ഠ പോലും കണ്ടില്ല. അങ്ങനെ ദുഖിച്ചു തിരിച്ചു നടന്നപ്പോളാണ് റൂമിലെ അപ്പുറത്തെ ബെഡ് ഇലെ ചെക്കൻ രാത്രി ക്യൂ ഉണ്ടാവില്ല ന്നു പറഞ്ഞത് ഓർമ വന്നത്, അങ്ങനെ രാത്രി വീണ്ടും വരാമെന്നു തീരുമാനിച്ചു ഞങ്ങൾ റൂമിലേക്കു പോയി. ഒന്നുറങ്ങി എണീറ്റപ്പോഴേക്കും രാത്രി ആയി. രാത്രി അയാൾ പറഞ്ഞപോലെ തിരക്കൊന്നും ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നില്ല. അന്നും അതിനടുത്ത ദിവസവും ഞങ്ങൾ രാത്രി പോയി തൊഴുതു.

ട്രെയിൻ ടിക്കറ്റ് കൺഫേം ആവാത്തതിനാൽ ഞങ്ങൾ ബസ് ടിക്കറ്റ് ബുക്ക്‌ ചെയ്തു. അടുത്ത ദിവസം രാവിലെ ബോട്ട് റൈഡ് നു പോയി. കഴിഞ്ഞ രണ്ടു ദിവസങ്ങളിലായി ആളുകളെ ദഹിപ്പിക്കുന്നത് ഞങ്ങൾ പലതവണ കണ്ടിരുന്നു. എന്നാൽ ബോട്ടിങ് നു ഇടയിൽ കണ്ട ഒരു കാഴ്ച എന്നെ അക്ഷരാർത്ഥത്തിൽ ഞെട്ടിച്ചു കളഞ്ഞു. മുഴുവനായി ദഹിപ്പിക്കാത്ത ശരീര ഭാഗങ്ങൾ ഗംഗയിൽ തന്നെ ഒഴുകിവിടും എന്ന് ഞാൻ ഇതിനു മുൻപും കേട്ടിരുന്നു. എന്നാൽ ആ കാഴ്ച അതിദാരുണമായിരുന്നു.

800 രൂപക്ക് വാക്കുറപ്പിച്ചു ഞങ്ങൾ ബോട്ടിങ് തുടങ്ങി. പക്ഷികൾ ക്കു സേവ് പോലെൻജോ കൊടുത്താൽ അവർ ബോടിനടുത്തു വരും.മിക്കവാറും എല്ലാവരും ഫോട്ടോ ഷൂട്ട്‌ ഞാനും ബോട്ടിങ് നടത്തുന്നത്. ഗംഗയുടെ മാറുകരയിൽ ഒന്ന് രണ്ടു പശു ചത്തുകിടക്കുന്നത് കണ്ടു. അങ്ങനെ തുഴഞ്ഞു പോകുന്നതിനിടെ ഒരു സ്ത്രീ മരിച്ചുകിടക്കുന്നത് കണ്ടു. ദൂരെ നിന്നാണ് കണ്ടതെങ്കിലും ആ കാഴ്ച ഞാൻ വ്യക്തമായി ഓർക്കുന്നു. ആദ്യം എനിക്ക് അത് അവിശ്വസിനീയമായി തോന്നി. ഒരാൾ മരിച്ചു കിടക്കുന്നു അതെ തീരത്ത് ആളുകൾ നടക്കുന്നു, ഒട്ടകസവാരി നടത്തുന്നു. അതെ പുഴയിൽ ആളുകൾ കുളിക്കുന്നു, ഞങ്ങൾ ബോട്ടിങ് ചെയ്യുന്നു, ഫോട്ടോ എടുക്കുന്നു. ഞങ്ങളുടെ ബോട്ട് തുഴഞ്ഞിരുന്ന ആളോട് ഞാൻ ആഘോഷം ഒരു സ്ത്രീ യാണോ എന്ന് ചോദിച്ചു. അയാൾക് പ്രത്യേകിച്ചു പുതിയ കാഴ്ച അല്ലായിരുന്നിരിക്കണം അത്. ഭാവബേദമന്യേ അതെ എന്ന് അയാൾ മറുപടി പറഞ്ഞു വീണ്ടും തുഴയാൻ തുടങ്ങി. എന്റെ ഞെട്ടൽ മാറിയിരുന്നില്ല. എന്തുകൊണ്ടാണ് ആരും ഒന്നും ചെയ്യാത്തത്, പോലീസ് വരാത്തത് എന്നിങ്ങനെ എന്റെ സംശയങ്ങൾ ക്കൊക്കെയും നിസംഗതയോടെ അയാൾ മറുപടി പറഞ്ഞു. അതെല്ലാം അവിടെ സ്വഭാവികമായ കാഴ്ചകൾ ആണത്രേ. ആ ശരീരം പട്ടിയോ പൂച്ചയോ കഴിക്കുമെന്ന് അയാൾ പറഞ്ഞത് കേട്ട് ഞാൻ പകച്ചുപോയി. ഒരാളുടെ ജീവന് ഇത്ര മാത്രമേ വിലയുള്ളൂ എന്നത് എനിക്ക് അവിശ്വസിനീയമായി തോന്നി. അതെ ഗംഗയിൽ ദീപം ഒഴുകി ഞങ്ങൾ തിരിച്ചു റൂമിലേക്കു പോയി.

ഉണ്ണിയും ഷബാനയും പോകേണ്ട restaurants ന്റെ പേര് വരെ കണ്ടുപിടിച്ചത് ഈ ട്രിപ്പ്‌ ഓലൻ ചെയ്തത്. അതുകൊണ്ട് തന്നെ അവരെ ഫോളോ ചെയ്യണ്ട ജോലി മാത്രമേ ഞങ്ങള്ക്ക് ഉണ്ടായിരുന്നുള്ളൂ. അങ്ങിനെ വാരാണസി സ്പെഷ്യൽ ചാട്ട് ഉം, കുൽഫി falooda യും malayio യും പൂരി ബാജി യും എല്ലാം ട്രൈ ചെയ്ത് ഞങ്ങൾ 4 ആം ദിവസം ഉച്ചക്ക് വണ്ടി കേറി.

ആകെ മടിപിടിച്ചു thallavibe ആയിരുന്ന എനിക്ക് വീണ്ടും ജീവൻ വച്ചപോലെ ആയിരുന്നു ഈ യാത്ര. ഈ യാത്ര തുടങ്ങിയപ്പോൾ ഇനി യാത്രകൾ മടുത്തെന്നു തോന്നിയ എനിക്ക്, യാത്രകൾ ഒരിക്കലും മടുക്കില്ലെന്നും, ഇനിയും ഇനിയും ആയിരം യാത്രകൾ തീർക്കാൻ ബാക്കിയുണ്ടെന്നും ഈ യാത്ര എന്നെ ഓർമിപ്പിച്ചു.

6/12/24

Fairfield

It was late in the night, around 2, and I woke up to the sight of Air India flying down to the colored field. every time I woke in the middle of the night, flights were landing on the field. I remembered the child in the village of Poozhikunnu, looking at the sky, watching the flights till it vanished out of her sight. I was not excited the first time I traveled on a flight which was in 2013, mostly because of my motion sickness, but this view was spectacular, waking up to this touchdown!

Mumbai was sweating and burning under the hot angry sun. Mumbai didn't feel like Mumbai at all except for the airport and the luxury hotels that it attracted. It felt very strange that the biggest city of the country is kept so untidy, even in the most prominent areas, and under the nose of these fancy big luxury hotels is the country's poorest population living, in slums.

The areas near the airport are mostly surrounded by densely packed slums and the roads through these are too narrow and the traffic is tiresome. We decided not to come out of the hotel with the sun cursing us all day and just managed to spend a day in the luxury that the hotel provided. the delicious cuisine, the swimming pool, and the view of the take-off and touchdown from my room made my day. When the sun finally settled down, we stepped out and Google Maps took us to Juhu Beach. Cleanliness is not something you should expect away from the main city. I wondered why even the premises of celebrities didn't maintain the standard.

The nights were decorated with the view, some food we got from local shops and some whisky. My head was spinning by late at night, and I couldn't wake up but in half-consciousness, I vividly saw the flight landing, spectacular! For a moment my life looked perfect and I knew this could be my life, I was getting comfortable with the new life that was welcoming me. Love was in the air!

Next-day, without minding the weather we got ourselves to the gateway of India, it was crowded, Mumbai Indians team fans were all over there near the stadium and the Taj proudly stared at us. City premises are kept clean even with thousands of tourists rushing there every minute. We sat there, drove around the marine drive, had some food looking at the huge buildings facing the sea and Antilia peeping in between.

While going back to our room, I saw the city changing from the all-clean, luxurious glamourous Mumbai to the ordinary and then to the slums. How people in every layer are packed together in the huge city but live different lives. How do the richest and the poorest live that close and never wonder at the contradiction? How the city is still managing to accommodate more people I wonder? How many elections, decades, and rulers will it take to save the biggest city away from poverty, the slums, the dirty water, and untidy roads? will India ever become developed to that extent? I felt tired of seeing such specks of dirt, disorganized traffic, slums, and waste spread over the sides almost everywhere I went!

09/04/24

Fairfield by Marriott -Mumbai

Waves

The loud music of Hindi songs were giving me the feeling of a north Indian DJ set, but on a wide horizon covering 1000s of people, most of them drunk and seemingly having the best time of their life. I looked like a misfit in that vibrant crowd with the thoughts piling up in my head. Beer bottle in my hand was half emptied by then, and started to ease the struggle in my head. Hari, a strong opposer to drinking and smoking was rolling her eyes at me.

women who sells ornaments made of shells and many other venters passed through us. The one who braids coloured threads in hair gained my attention and she took over my hair even before i knew it. my hair was the longest in that period and she struggle to braid the entire length. It was past 11 at night , by the time the bottle was empty i was already dancing in my head. We followed the loudest music audible, got inside the crowd and my feet were dancing, my hands were in the air and my mind lost somewhere near the shore. It was as energetic as a day even though it was close to midnight. we sat by the shore looking at the darkness in front of us. If you closely try to listen your ears and skin will understand that its the infinite sea but your eyes wont perceive it. My weak legs somehow made it to the room.

By morning, the memories of the sea kept me awake. I took Hari who was half asleep and went to see the sea. All along the beach were people who came to bathe. The sea was much further away than yesterday. I hugged the waves, slowly they hugged me back. For the first time in life i wasn't afraid of getting wet in front of people. I danced with the waves , completely unaware of time and place , immersed in the coldness of the water and the songs that the waves deliver. In few hours the shore becomes a market , with the water sports and food. Life , however dry it may get, cannot stop to find the youthfulness in one of goa's beaches.

Goa except for its tourist beaches , is an ordinary village once you drive through it, except for the foreigners you might find throughout. We lied down by the shore every time we missed sea, we went out all dressed up by night to become the hippies that we never were neither become again. every time life got tough afterwards i would close my eyes, listen to the waves, feel the water, danced with the sea and waited for the party night.

26/3/24

Bhopal.

The wind

We were just sitting in a cafe on the cliff by the side of the vast Arabian sea with some delicious French breakfast. It was the second time I have waited there in a month for a favorable wind flow so that the paragliding could restart. Last time, almost two weeks before, we waited two days and still found no luck. It was the first time Hari and I were actually sitting for some time on any trip we had been on. We usually plan every minute, try to cover as many places as possible, and run through places in a rush. At that moment, while waiting for the wind to come in our favor, we had nothing left to do. It was the first time it occurred to me that travel could be more than just seeing places; it could be about having a peaceful time with someone to share life stories with. It was pure bliss.

The sunny morning and the sea, with its view from the cliff, people down there looking like coloured dots, and the wind tickling my hair yet not coming in favour of my paragliding goal, the delicious aroma of baked bread, varkala cliff looked like a land which doesnt have any connection with any other part of Kerala. We wandered through the 2 km distance of the Varkala cliff left and right, up and down to the sea, and back to the cliff. We talked to the paragliding team every time we crossed their faces, yet the wind was unwilling to help me through.

Varkala is almost mini goa, with foreigners and local tourists resting by the cafes, swimming in the sea, and getting spas and tattoos, except in the morning when the dawn of rays makes it a religious place. People who come for sraddam of their beloved humans, the religious rituals, chants, flowers and banana leaves floating in the sea make it sacred the sea also keep the serenity, which suddenly takes its tourist charm later in hours. By the repeated enquiry and discussion with the paragliding team and almost 2–3 weeks of waiting for the wind, it was almost sure that the wind might not come in the required direction today as well, so as to restart the paragliding. With no hope left and seeing almost all of the Varkala Cliff, most of its shops, and cafes, we needed a new plan. The memory of some reels that I saw about the mangrove villages popped in my head, and I took a scooter on rental for Rs400 per day. It was raining heavily, and the kind shopkeeper gave us two raincoats. One hour of riding in the rain with the sadness of my failed waiting for wind didn't let me enjoy the otherwise beautiful rain drive.

It was a damp, half-forest area inside a village. We were trained about kayaking, how to use the paddles, and how to sail the kayak. A small, charming boy in his teens was sent with us on another kayak to accompany us. sailing the kayak was easy when the wind was in our direction and was a curse when it was in the opposite direction, but it was thrilling enough to know that we were sailing a kayak on our own.

The wind there had a salty taste; it was past noon, sunny, and rainy at the same time. The river becomes smaller as it enters narrow mangrove lush, giving it the feeling of a magical foreign land kept hidden from the external world. The darker corners of the mangrove forest hide the beauty of colorful birds, and the silence brings the music of their melody. It was still raining. we sailed our boats through the turns and finally reached the natural gateway created by the greenish lushness of their indigenous water plants. I was already amused by that sight in my visual memory, which I got from various travel vloggers, and the real sight was way more magnificent. The water was shallow there, and we got down from our kayaking boats to feel the coldness of the water. Have you ever sailed in the rain?? been in a river while it was raining? My heart was pounding with joy, and the dilemmas, sorrows, and uncertainty that were surrounding me melted into the salty water that was surrounding me. Our phones were kept in a plastic bag that was tied to my little guide's boat, or-else i would have captured that moment.

While me and Hari were enjoying the shallow water front surrounding us and the rain that had been following us for almost 4 hours, the little guide was tying our kayaking boat to the trees. My little guide encouraged us to swim, but two girls who had no idea about swimming couldn't take that risk, mainly because we had no dress to change. I picked up a few pebbles to keep, and we rode our way through the magnificent gate way nature created.

The Paravoor Lake was seemingly very shallow and stagnant, but if you sit in the boat, you will know that it was flowing underneath. We venture into the captivating mangrove forest, taking care to maintain silence and preserve the delicate ecosystem teeming with rare wildlife such as birds, turtles, and fish. Navigating through the narrow canals of the mangrove forest, we marvel at its natural beauty, slowing our pace to fully immerse ourselves in the tranquil surroundings.

Our little guide was very enthusiastic, asking about the medical school, life outside Kerala, and Hindi. He was working there as a guide part-time during vacation as he was saving up to buy a second-hand television to his home. While kayaking back, the water current was against our direction, and the sailing was a bit difficult. Being under the sun and the rain for almost 3 hours was so refreshing that I forgot that the goal of the trip was to fly. Just when I was almost becoming a sailor woman in my head, a small wind started tickling my neck. It was still raining. I imagined the paragliding team restarting their business and people jumping over the cliff and flying above the Arabian Sea. As it was late and we had to catch a train back home, we hurried back in our wet clothes under the rain and the wind following us. It was telling me to go back to the cliff and jump over the cliff to see the sea, but I had to say good-bye, though it followed me till the train.

22/3/24

Bhopal

The splendid Kashmir.

My sister used to tell me she wanted to go to Kashmir when we were kids, tension between India and Pakistan was daily news back then. we used to make fun of her for being naive. Still, for decades, she had claimed to have planned a trip to Kashmir, and I continued calling it foolish. Politics shifted decades later, and Kashmir became one of the most popular tourist destinations. The urge to watch snow fall, along with a strong desire to travel, led us to Kashmir.

Kashmir looks like three different places in three different seasons. You might marvel at nature's ability to leave no trace of the previous or upcoming season. During the winter, it's all white—nothing but white—a snow desert with no sign of green at times, and you can't see apples or the renowned Kesar. Slowly, the snow melts, and spring emerges. Tulips, cherry blossoms, and golden farms all emerge out of nowhere. Even the common walkways would be adorned with magnificent flowers. By the middle of the year, apple orchards that were nothing but dried-up sticks in previous seasons will begin to show off fruit, and by August, famed saffron will begin to bloom straight above the soil, and apples will be ready for harvest.

It was the middle of March, halfway between winter and spring. A bit of both here and there. Snow was not completely covering the valleys; you may not see snow fall in the normal spots, but you may see it during the second half of the gondola trip. Kashmir's Airport is highly secured yet small. Mr. Bilal, our trip's driver, was waiting for us outside the airport when we arrived. The photo with this text is the first scene I saw when I stepped out of the plane. Kashmir is significantly distinct from the rest of India in terms of how people dress, their lifestyle, attire, and even their physical look. The traditional attire for both men and women is the pheran. The majority of the individuals have sharp features and are taller than the average Indian. Most highways and traffic are patrolled by military personnel armed with rifles. Our driver, Bilal, was a really amusing guy ,who would always slip into the wrong roads and had to sneak away from the military troops. Bilal was very curious about our language, education, and the rest of India, as he had never left Kashmir. The language is Kashmiri, and the locals, especially when visitors are around, speak it, as does Bilal. Throughout the journey, Bilal would only play Kashmiri music and sing along as loudly as he could. He told us stories about how he couldn't go to school and how much he wanted his son to. He lived in a huge family with his parents and siblings, and nuclear families didn't seem like an option to him. Houses in Kashmir are specially made to withstand weather fluctuations. Taq architecture is characterized by wood foundations with dried-up stone and mud. According to Bilal, it is constructed of pine trees and can protect against harsh colds.

In Srinagar, we stayed at a hotel. The manager was originally taken aback by the notion that two sisters were traveling without their parents, and he became very protective of us. The hotel staff was extremely lovely and would provide really wonderful cuisine based on our preferences and tastes that were unique to Kashmir. Before we reach a spot, Bilal will give us a lesson on how to bargain, what to do, and where to meet. Still, he would occasionally get us into trouble by introducing us to guides and stores that he had connections with, which appeared vital for his existence there. Kashmir is a beautiful destination to visit, but be cautious of the guides and stores you visit, since they frequently mislead you. Particularly in areas such as Gondola and Pehalgam.

The Shikara ride is the biggest attraction in Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. It is a boat built of pine wood and embellished with lovely fabrics and decorations. Throughout the trip, floating stores will accompany you to showcase their wares, such as ornaments, perfumes, and wooden artwork, and especially the photographers, who would deck you up in stunning pheran and traditional trinkets. I did succumb to them. The boat rider, a very knowledgeable young man, gave us stories about Kashmir and the lake itself. Kashmiris do not often wear clothing that is widely available throughout India. Their principal business and source of income is the fabric they weave themselves, and the shikar boat is the way of transportation for many in the Dal Lake area. There are active vegetable markets all around Dal Lake, and the only way to get there is via boat. People have started wearing western clothing as part of globalization, but not as commonly as in other parts of India. In the summer, males wear khan dresses and women wear salwar kameez; in the winter, both wear pheran. There are so many unexplored places in Kashmir that might take a little longer to cover, which might include trekking. The usual travel packages don't really consider those places. He seemed pretty upset about the outsiders taking over the tourists. The one thing about every Kashmiri local is that they are very proud of their place, talk with so much love about their birthplace, and consider it sacred.

our next location was Sri Sakaracharya temple, It was there that Shri Shankaracharya used to pray to Shiva Lingam. One must ascend a bit to reach the temple, from where one can see the entire Dal Lake, which is one of the largest in India. we were in Kashmir during Holi, and holi didn't seem like a festival in Kashmir. Aside from Srinagar city, the other places, which are largely gardens, were just starting to bloom with flowers and weren't as appealing as they would be in the spring. Tulip Gardens had been closed.

Day two was spent in Gulmarg. Apart from the chilly weather, Srinagar had no snow at all. Gulmarg is roughly one to two hours drive from Srinagar. we stopped for breakfast on the way. Hari likes fancy breakfasts; the only demand she has while going on any trip is about food. So I make it clear that we eat good food at good restaurants. Bilal got us to a decent restaurant for breakfast. We ate normal French toast, egg scrapes, kesar milk, and kehwa. Kehwa is the unique drink of Kashmiris; it is somewhat similar to our tea. It's green tea with saffron, cinnamon, cardamon, and kashmiri roses blended together and topped with almond powder. While traveling to Gulmarg, one may see the snow-capped mountains from various angles. The ascent up to Gulmarg was amazing. Giant pine trees dotting the snow-covered valleys throughout the ascend. Since Hari had visited Manali previously, she was accustomed to seeing snow. It was my first time seeing snow, at least. The nearest I got to snow was during a hailstorm in Bhopal. That happened twice when I was in college. Bilal retrieved a guide, Nizar, in between the climbs. At every location Nizar had connections to, including the carriages, the skating rink, the trench coat rental store, and several other leisure places, he would take us. Managing these folks was the main problem. Gulmarg is a valley and was totally blanketed in snow, but due to the volume of people and the dirt they brought with them, the snow wasn't as white as one might have thought. Once you descend, there is a straight road that leads to the cable car station. However, the guides and villagers have made arrangements for you to go through the entire snow valley, most likely in a manual carriage, to the cable car station, and they can loot your money.

The most remarkable tourist attraction in Gulmarg is the cable car; however, because of its constant high demand, reservations must be made a day or two in advance. There are two stages: the first will take you to a higher altitude than Gulmarg, called the gondola, and the second will take you all the way to the summit of the mountain. You'll need to reserve separate tickets for both. It's better to do any leisure activity at Gondola than at Gulmarg. The experience of the cable car ride is quite lovely. It is a visual treat to travel above the snow and see the pine trees covered in snow. You can see small huts made of pine wood in between the pine trees during the ride, skaters skating down from the gondola, and also some manual carriages riding down with tourists, which seem pretty dangerous. internet might not work at the high altitudes and having some liquid cash would be a good idea if one is planning to travel. Since we had already done every possible leisure activity at Gulmarg and since there were fewer guides on top, it was more comfortable, and we got to enjoy ourselves better at the top. The snow was whiter there, and since the oxygen saturation is low, it's a little difficult to breathe at the top. We had the famous Kashmiri Dum aloo and girda. We came back by sunset and got a good night's sleep.

We couldn't get to Sonmarg as we had to wait two days to get the tickets at Gondola, and the third day was supposed to be at Pehalgam. Pehalgam is around 2–3 hours from Srinagar. If it were summer, apple farms would have been all ready for harvest, but it was just the dried-up land all through the travel. We got some kesar and dry fruits from a shop Bilal introduced us to. The pachmina shawl and sarees that they showed us, apparently from the factory outlet, were costly as compared to what we saw from local shops in Srinagar.We got some apple and lotus stem pickles from the road. As we reached Pehelgam, it was almost a similar setup as far as the guides were concerned; we had already told Bilal not to get us anymore guides. We got two horses to get us to the top. The ascent was perilous, and I felt bad for the horses. I prayed the entire way up to the top, knowing that it was muddy and steep and that the horse would pass through the edge of the road. In the unlikely event that your horse falters, you will fall into the 50–100-foot-deep, snow-filled river and most likely hit your head among the stunning stones. That evening, we spent the night at another hotel in Pehalgam, which had a breathtaking view.

We returned to Srinagar the following day and stayed at the houseboat. Though those aren't really boats, you might expect the houseboat to move. Although they are immobile and anchored in place, their architecture is noteworthy and evocative of a palace. The boat's owner was a very kind man who provided us with excellent food and remained accessible the entire time we were there. Even though you can hear people moving around and the boat trembling all night, the stay was incredibly memorable. The following day, we departed from Kashmir, with Bilal seeing us off at the airport.

Kashmir is undoubtedly a breathtaking location. It is a place one must visit in their lifetime. one of the most talked-about locations in India. Visiting Kashmir will alter your perspective on the region. You will sense the place's sacredness and how well it has been shielded from the outside world.

14/11/23

Bhopal.

Rajasthan

While we were in college, me, Aathira, Gopi Mavya, and Nehla had planned a trip to cover Rajasthan, including Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Jaiselmer, but it didn't work out as planned, and later, me, Gopi Nehla, and Aathira covered just Jaipur. I've had this Jaiselmer on my bucket list ever since. As the year was coming to an end and wmany of my plans had fallen through, I resolved this month to at least cross one item off my long bucket list, if not more than a few, out of desperation. Thus, in the few days I had left, Hari and I packed up and headed back to Rajasthan.

We took a plane out of Bhopal to fly from Udaipur. Other than that, I really didn't plan this trip at all. The trip to Udaipur only took an hour. At twenty degrees, it was practically the same temperature as Bhopal. Winter is, in fact, the ideal season to visit Rajastan. The issue with the airport in Udaipur is that you are unable to reserve an Uber; instead, they will request that you cancel and give them additional cash for an offline journey. We took a cab to our hotel, which was around 30 minutes from the airport. The road to the surroundings of Lake Pichola will narrow down, which can then occupy an auto barely. Most of the hotels in Udaipur are in and around Lake Pichola, with many small and wider bridges connecting both sides of the river. Our hotel was a small zoo near the lake, which had private rooms and shared washrooms. You may wonder at the marvelous buildings on both sides of the lakes, which might confuse you with the main tourist spot, the city palace of Udaipur. but those are porous hotels. There are also hotels inside the lake, to which only transportation is via boat. All of the tourist spots are around the lake, which include the Japanese temple, Bagore Ki Haweli, and Gangour Ghat. Restaurants are mostly roof-top, as it gives a wonderful view of the lake. The climate was chilly. The places and the lake reminded me of Rameshwaram, with the connecting bridges and a surrounding area resembling Tamil Nadu. The next day we rented a scooter, and surprisingly, it didn't have any provedure other than giving him my missed call for 350 per day. We had two destinations for that day, including Sahelion Ki Bari and Sajjangarh Palace. Sahelion Ki Bari is a garden that does have a beautiful fountain surrounded by lush greenery. Sajjangargh Palace is located in a higher range, and we had to drive up a pretty steep mountain. Udaipur is surrounded by almost seven small and big lakes that were created during the 1300s and is known as the city of lakes, just like Bhopal, which is also named the same but for its natural lakes.

Our next destination was Jodhpur, which was around 4-5 hours from Udaipur. We took an early morning bus from Udaipur and reached there by 12. Our stay was at the host. The host, named Bunny, was a charming guy, and I was telling Hari that I was getting a crush on this guy. Since our stay there was just for one day and we had just one location to cover, we spent some time by the hostel. Just like Udaipur, Jodhpur also has roof-top restaurants in abundance, as in my hotel too. The roof top had the most amazing view, with the fort and the blue buildings in between. After eating some regular brunch, we took our climb to the fort, which was a little tough, even though we got to see the sky blue walls in every corner, giving it its name. Fort was built high above the grounf, with evening band performances and antique shops inside, from which I collected few souvenirs. night we roamed around the city here and there, had some dinner at the roof top, again wondering at the night view of the fort from the hotel, and slept as we had to take our trip to our main destination next day early morning next day, to Jaiselmer, the desert!!!

Finally, our destination is Jaiselmer, after a 5-hour journey from Jodhpour. Our resort, which was in the desert, was around 30-45 minutes from the main station. By the time you travel to Jaiselmer from Joshpur, you can see the nature changing from a city to a very small village-like town. The trip from Jaiselmer to the resort was pretty amazing, with the excitement of watching the desert for the first time, sand everywhere with tourists on camels, and the desert camps by the sides. Our camp,the Sunrise Desert Camp, was a little far away into the desert, and our driver reminded me of my driver Bilal from Kashmir, with his accent and the same dress. We got a tent, and we arranged a Jeep for our desert safari and camel ride from the resort itself. By PM, the Jeep took us deep into the desert. The ride was interesting, and the camel ride was nice but costly. The camel ride took us to the beginning of the Thar, which was protected by a fence. After the ride, we waited there till sunset to watch that view.At night, when we came back to the resort, there were people in the Rajasthani attair waiting to welcome us to the dance and music school. In between, they served high tea with snacks and later with dinner. All the guests danced around with the dancers after their show.

Every other tourist attraction in Jaiselmer was in the city itself, so we vacated our resort bymorning, and our driver helped us keep our luggage in a hotel, which was thebranch of our desert resort. We first saw the Jaiselmer Fort, which was within walking distance of the hotel. unlike other forts I have been to, Jaiselmer Desert was not under government control. It was open to private hotels and shops; it was a living fort, so the maintenance of the fort was poor, with many stays and hotels, and the waste from these places can be seen from a distance as the fort is at a height. Yet inside the fort, there are hundreds of antique shops and people selling food, fresh juices, antique paintings, and many small and big temples. If one wants to shop during a Rajasthan trip, Jaiselmer Palace would be the best place. after place,kotharo pathwon ki haweli, was within walking distance. We walked through the streets, but unlike Udaipur, Jaiselmer is poor in terms of cleanliness, yet the walls and houses, just like the fort, have very delicate architexture with precise designs throughout the walls of the shops and households. Then we walked to Dodsisagar Lake, which was closed for some reason, so we couldn't go boating. The last destination, Bada Bag,bada bag was the best of all: a serene natural place with monuments to the emperors. It was supposed to be a farm, but as greenery didn't flourish there, it was later converted into a memorial ground. One should visit there at sunset when it is not crowded. It is the serenest place I have been to after Khajuraho.That was it. We took our 12-hour bus back to Udaipur and then a flight to Bhopal. one more bucket list down with my last trip of 2023!

3/1/24

Bhopal

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